The Search For Freedom

 

One of the first surf movies I ever watched was Step Into Liquid. In that film, Rabbit Kekai says “Once you get the sand between your toes you can never leave the beach”.

Since I became a surfer, I have been searching. The search for new waves, new places, new people. The search for freedom.

This is the story of a revolution that was started by people who wished to live in the moment where they are most alive and in turn, created an entire industry.